Author: Roger Bergson

  • The Magic Jacket

    Ten years ago…when he was a bit more svelte…Roger purchased this very fancy rain jacket for cycling.

    It was made of the latest miracle fabric that kept the rain and wind out while at the same time it wicked away perspiration.

    But that wasn’t what made it magic.

    In 10 years of cycling in Pienza, Roger never ever got caught out in the rain when he packed the jacket along on a ride. Should he leave the jacket at home on a cloudy day, he always got soaked by a sudden rainstorm.

    That was the magic.

    As Roger’s 80th birthday approached, he was determined to squeeze in a birthday bike ride regardless of the weather. The forecast didn’t look promising. It called for a 70% chance of rain. When he woke up early birthday morning, the forecast predicted rain starting in four hours. The bike ride he had planned took only three hours, so he decided to give it a go.

    From Pienza, Roger headed north to Trequanda. As he approached Trequanda, the sky darkened, and a light rain began to fall. Was this the end of Roger’s lucky talisman?

    Within a minute, the rain let up, but the sky continued to darken.

    His next destination: Montisi. Even though it’s only a few kilometers away, it was slow going…two big hills along the way.

    From the top of one hill, Roger could see rain in the distance.

    In Montisi, it was time to stop for an espresso at a bar called L ‘ Ombelico del Mondo (The Bellybutton of the World). Roger walked in the door…this photo was taken in better weather…and the skies opened up! A 15 minute rain squall, and then the sun came out.

    Roger pedaled on to Torrenieri in bright sun. His luck had held.

    But as he was leaving Torrenieri, he looked to the west. The sky was black. Soon, he saw lightning bolts to his right and heard the rumble of thunder behind him.

    By the time he approached San Quirico d’Orcia, the thunder and lightning was nearly constant. It was only 2-½ hours since Roger had left Pienza. Clearly, the weather forecast had been overly optimistic.

    He ducked into the cover of San Quirico’s Porta Cappuccini…named not for the coffee drink but for the Cappuccin order of monks who once lived nearby. (This photo of the gate was also taken in fairer weather.)

    Roger again checked the weather forecast on his cell phone. This time, it predicted heavy rain would start within minutes.

    How heavy was it?

    From under the protection of the porta, Roger could look up the street into town. About 5 minutes after his arrival, he saw gutters overflowing with rain runoff.

    This deluge kept up for half an hour, until the rain eased enough so the downspouts could hold the water.

    Soon thereafter, the sun came out, and Roger hopped back on his bike and pedaled home to Pienza.

    That jacket is truly magic.

  • European Heat Dome

    Carol’s and Roger’s bags were packed, and they prepared to leave for Pienza, one thing was on their mind…all the stories they had read about surge after surge of extreme hot weather across Europe.

    On the day of their departure, the New York Times published a map along with a story about how extreme heat has plagued Europe all summer

    They had read the weather reports for Tuscany and were warned about what to expect when they arrived.

    Despite this, they weren’t prepared for was what they found when they arrived at the airport in Rome.

    They hopped in their rental car and headed north to Pienza. Roger looked at the dashboard and noticed the outside temperature read 44°C…

    …that’s 🔥111°F🔥.

    When they arrived in Pienza, Carol and Roger found many things the same. The Piazza Duomo was as pretty as ever.

    Carol’s friends were still there for morning coffee….

    We noticed the tourists all got out of the sun to take their photos.

    Miraculously, the flowers on our terrace had managed to survive the heat…but only because a friend came to water three times a week.

    Gas prices show the effects of world events. The price shown on the sign is per liter…the equivalent of $8.40 per gallon.

    Carol and Roger did catch a short break. Just as they arrived in Pienza, the sky filled with with thunderheads.

    Soon, the thunderheads turned into a drenching rain…with lightning that lasted for hours.

    When the rain let up, Roger went to move the car. The temperature that had been 44° C now read 24° C…a drop from 111 °F to 75 °F.

    The relief proved temporary, however. By the following morning, temperatures were right back up to the new “normal”… with a forecast high of 102°F.

  • Sneak Preview

    (this blog post was written November 28th, but had to be embargoed until the new year to protect our hosts from violating Consorzio rules.)

    After aging patiently in the barrel and bottle for five years, the 2021 vintage of our very favorite wine, Brunello di Montalcino, is almost ready to go to market.

    The Consorzio di Brunello’s rules prohibit its members from releasing the latest vintage until the January five years after the grapes are harvested.

    However, in late November the Consorzio di Brunello hosts:

    This marketing event…open to distributors and credentialed wine press…is timed to meet deadlines for the world’s wine magazines (e.g. Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast), so articles about the latest Brunello vintage will come out just as the wine is first available for sale.

    It’s four days of wine tasting….

    … presentations about how weather shaped the 2021 vintage….

    …or master classes on convincing restaurants to carry more Brunello on their wine lists

    (Thanks to SienaNews for these convention photos)

    However, the real marketing is done at private dinners, where wineries fete journalists to elegant meals in an attempt to get them to write positive reviews.

    Carol and Roger would have drooled at the opportunity to attend.  But there was no way.

    Imagine our delight, then, when our friends at Azienda Agricola Innocenti invited us to drop by a few days after Benvenuto Brunello for a chance to preview their 2021 vintage.

    Patrizia Gallorini did the honors.

    First, the 2020 Brunello…for comparison purposes.

    Then the new vintage…2021.

    Note, the bottle has no label. Brunello vintners can’t label their wines before the approved sell date.

    So, how does the 2020 vintage rate?

    Our expert’s face tells it all.

  • 563 Years Later…

    On the Fall Equinox in the year 1462, Pope Pius II dedicated the town of Pienza.

    Now, 5 centuries later, the town of Pienza recreates the event, with a weekend dedicated to Renaissance pageantry and competitions.

    Ten years ago, when we first went to this event, we posted a photo of “Two Maidens”…pretty young Pientini in costume. This year, their daughters continued the tradition.

    The local nobility was well represented.

    The college of Cardinals sent a delegation.

    Some of the people who dressed the part look as if they belong in the Rennaissance.

    The event drew a crowd 10 deep circling the entire piazza.

    Every available window on Piazza Pio was filled with onlookers.

    They weren’t there for the food…or to gawk at the costumes.

    The crowd was there for the Sbandieratori, the flag throwers.

    It was billed as a friendly competition. Sbandieratori from four different towns each got a chance to show off their acts. (For a description of the evolution of the sbandieratori, see our 2017 blog post https://rbergson.org/sbandieratori-flag-wavers/)

    The first entrant was from Umbria, the town of Giove. (In the case of all the videos that follow, it’s best watched in full screen mode)

    The second team was from the town of Torrita di Siena…about 25 kilometers up the road:

    The third team came from San Quirico, just on the other side of the Val d’ Orcia. The town is notable for its success in flag throwing competitions. This video should demonstrate why:

    Finally, the home team got the final at bat:

    If you think this is just some simple flag waving, the following video clip…in slow motion…shows what virtuosos these athletes are:

  • Pienza’s Own Palio

    Earlier this Summer, we reported to you on Siena’s world-famous Palio.

    So, we would be remiss if we didn’t follow up with a blog post about Pienza’s own version of the event.

    It started Saturday night with a Contrada (neighborhood) dinner. Each neighborhood had a set of tables in the main piazza. All six neighborhoods combined for about one eighth the number of diners at the Oca dinner we attended in Siena (see https://rbergson.org/dinner-at-the-palio/)

    Sunday’s activities began in a jam-packed Piazza Pio with a performance by the sbandieratori, or flag throwers.

    (The short video below is best viewed in full-screen mode)

    Then came the main event: Cacio a Fuso…or the Rolling of the Cheese.

    The idea is to roll a wheel of Pienza’s famous sheep-milk cheese (cacio) as close to the pin (fuso) as possible.

    It’s not as easy as you’d think.

    It’s heart-pounding, non-stop action, every bit as exciting as a bareback horse race. (Again, we suggest watching the video below in full-screen mode.)

    Of the 96 rolls in the competition, this was the only one to hit the fuso.