Author: Roger Bergson

  • The Renaissance’s First Encyclopedia

    When Carol and Roger got to tour the Pope’s palace in Pienza again this year, they also got to see another special treat…

    ….the Renaissance’s first encyclopedia.

    Some historical context to start with…

    Before he became Pope, Enea Silvio Piccolomini was a Vatican diplomat.

    One of his notable achievements was arranging the marriage of Frederick of Hapsburg to Eleanor of Portugal…

    …thereby assuring the loyalty of both the Hapsburg (Austrian) and Portuguese crowns to the Church.

    When Frederick became Holy Roman Emperor (1452), he named Piccolomini “Poet Laurate of the Holy Roman Empire” and his personal secretary.

    So, there was a long personal relationship between the two men.

    Enea Piccolomini became Pope Pius II a few years later and served as Pontiff until his death in 1464. Frederick III served as Holy Roman Emperor another 30 years.

    To honor the man who arranged his marriage and served as his private secretary, Emperor Frederick III decided to publish an encyclopedia of the known world.

    The encyclopedia is known as “il Libre Cronicarum” (The Book of Chronicles.) The German language edition was released in 1493, the Latin version a year later. It may have been the first book published in Europe to contain both text and drawings on the same page.

    Lest you think Eneas Piccolomini was not the inspiration for this book, notice the dedication above the picture (“Eneas pius papa“) and who is standing behind Empress Eleanor in the wood-block print.

    The first pages of the encyclopedia are a “biblical history” of the world…



    …starting with the creation of Adam,

    …the building of Noah’s Ark…

    …and extending to the geneologies of Europe’s then-ruling families.

    There were maps and descriptions of Europe’s major cities, in this case Florence…

    The encyclopedia ran 578 pages…only a few of which, the ones seen here, were first edition and part of the archive in Pienza.

    Il Liber Cronicarum has recently been reprinted in its entirety and is available…for a tidy sum…at an art print shop in Firenze.

  • The Big Weekend

    The first weekend in September in the USA is normally Labor Day, a big holiday weekend. But Carol and Roger would argue that it doesn’t hold a candle to that same weekend in Pienza.

    In Pienza, the first weekend in September is the Fiera di Cacio … the Cheese Fair.

    Pienza is world famous for its pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese…a product brought here right after WW II by Sardinian immigrants.

    In addition to cheese tastings, the weekend was filled with activities.

    Early Saturday afternoon, the Pientini (the local soccer squad) hosted a “friendly” with the team from Torrenieri. We suffered two critical defensive lapses and lost…a gloomy omen for the upcoming season against more high-powered teams.

    That night, the Pienza Chorus gave a concert honoring the work of Fabrizio di Andre, known as Italy’s “Poet of Music,” who died 25 years ago.

    But the really good stuff happened on Sunday.

    It started with the Sbandieratori, or flag throwers. For an explanation of what they do and how it evolved, see https://rbergson.org/sbandieratori-flag-wavers/

    A brief video clip from part of their act: (Click on the full-screen button in the window below to fully appreciate their skill.)

    That was followed by the main event…

    …the rolling of the cheese.

    Each contrada (neighborhood) in Pienza sends a team of six for what amounts to a Pientini version of horseshoes. (The closer you get to the pin, the more points you get.) For a description of how the competition works see https://rbergson.org/abbiamo-vinto-we-won/).

    It’s harder than it looks since the surface of the piazza is uneven and the cheese does not roll straight. Here’s a look at how it’s done:

    Our contrada, the blue triangle didn’t do so well this year.


    Preserving Tradition

    The town has made a concerted effort to keep these traditions alive.

    The youngsters in town start early learning to participate in the pageantry.

    Carol thought all the youngsters were cute, but this six-yeal-old stole her heart.


  • Palazzo Piccolomini

    Many times, we have shown our blog readers the main piazza in Pienza.

    The most noticeable building in Piazza Pio is the duomo (cathedral), built by Pope Pius II in the middle of the 1400’s. But to the right of duomo is the Pope’s personal residence, another building of architectural…and historical…note.

    When Pope Pius II was designing the city of Pienza with noted architect Bernardo Rossellino, he ordered his papal residence built on the site of his birth…and the rest of the city designed around it.

    Visitors enter the palazzo into the cortile (main courtyard)

    Frescoes that have survived almost 600 years of exposure to the weather grace the walls above the loggia…

    …and the Piccolomini family coat of arms is prominently displayed.

    A doorway at the back of the cortile leads to…

    …the Pope’s personal garden, with its sweeping view of the Val d’Orcia and Monte Amiata in the distance.

    Up a broad stairway to what Italians call the first floor is Pius II’s private residence.

    The Music Room

    His private Dining Room

    …and his bedroom, which includes…

    …a fresco by the controversial artist known as “il Sodoma.” (see more about him at https://rbergson.org/sodomas-revenge/)

    One of the more interesting rooms in the palazzo is the armory, where the Pope’s Swiss Guards mustered and stored their weapons.

    The furniture appears “boxy” to our modern tastes…

    but the intarsia (inlay work) is as complex and competent as any furniture-maker could do today.


    The public has access to the Palazzo Piccolomini thanks to the man in this 1917 photo.

    Silvio Piccolomini was the last of the Piccolomini clan. He spent much of his life restoring the palace and bequeathed it to the city of Pienza upon his death.

    His son Niccolo, also shown in the photo, was a pilot in the Italian Air Force…and died in a plane crash during WW II. The street Carol and Roger live on is named in his honor.

  • Italian Internet and Private Property

    One Summer, a few years ago, there was an electrical storm in Pienza…a common enough occurrence.  Carol and Roger were in Seattle at the time and did not know that a lightning bolt had struck a phone line on our street.  The resulting power surge blew out appliances in many houses…including any television set or Wi-Fi modem connected to fiber optic cable. 

    Within a few days the telephone utilities sent out repairmen to fix the lightning damage reported by our neighbors.  Since Carol and Roger were in Seattle and unaware of the outage, they never reported their damage.  So, the line to Casa Bergson was never fixed.

    Carol and Roger returned to Pienza a month after the storm…only to discover their phone line was dead and their Wi-Fi modem was fried.  Neighbors filled us in about the lightning strike and told us where to call to ask for repair.

    Carol, with the help of a friend, called the TIM…the phone company.  They promised to call back within 48 hours to arrange for repair.  That call never came.  Two weeks later, Carol called the phone company again and heard the same song: expect a return phone call within the next two days.  We were less surprised when that call never came either.

    Carol and Roger managed to cobble together an alternate system, using their phones as internet hot spots.  Cell phone service in Europe is marketed differently than in the USA.  Phone minutes are sold separately from data.  You purchase one package of phone minutes and a separate package of data (sold by the gigabyte).  If you use up all your data, not only can’t you access the internet, but your phone minutes are disabled as well.

    This system is fraught with problems.  The data purchases, available only in small batches, are expensive. Most frustrating, TIM’s on-line payment system managed to apply our data purchases not to data but rather to phone minutes…which were already fully funded.  And finally, on busy tourist weekends, Pienza’s lone cell tower is overwhelmed by demand…meaning internet searches often timed out or streaming video got knocked off-line.

    In frustration, we decided to try a different internet service provider.  Poste Italiana (the postal service) had good rates and was the only ISP with a representative in town to deal with problems.  Carol signed us up.  We were pleasantly surprised when, two days later, the modem arrived.  Roger plugged it in, fired it up…and discovered it used the same fiber optic cable that had been blown out in the electrical storm the Summer before.  Carol went to the post office to report the problem.  The postal clerk entered a request for line repair…and told Carol she would get a call setting up a appointment within the next two to three months. The results were similar.  The phone call never came.  Carol returned to the post office only to be promised yet another appointment.  In frustration, we abandoned this option.

    This June, when Carol and Roger returned to Pienza, new neighbors next door told us they had gotten a good response from Vodafone when they wanted Wi-Fi and phone service installed.  So, Carol and Roger went to the Vodafone store 25 km away in Sinalunga and signed up for their internet service.  Carol explained in detail that we needed our line repaired before any service would work.  The clerk at the Vodafone store insisted she understood the problem, and her company would resolve it…within two weeks.

    It took five weeks, not two, but Carol finally got a phone call from a a contractor for Vodafone…saying they would be out the next day to repair the problem.  They actually showed up…on time, no less!  For once, this seemed promising.

    The repairmen started to work on the problem.  The phone jack, where we would connect to the fiber optic cable, was fried.  It was replaced.  The line where the cable entered the apartment was fried as well.  They replaced that too.  They tested the outside phone line, where it entered the building.  It was dead.  They traced the problem to a junction box on the wall outside the house of the neighbor behind us.

    When that neighbor emerged from his house, the repairmen asked him if he would open his gate, so they could repair the box on the wall of his building.  The neighbor unexpectedly refused and launched into a profanity-laced tirade.  The repairman came back to our apartment, shrugged his shoulders (as only Italians can), and said he didn’t understand why…but he did not have permission to access the junction box and so he couldn’t repair what was inside it.

    This neighbor had always been friendly.  Roger told the repairman he would find out what the problem was.  He wasn’t too worried about understanding the neighbor…his English had always proven adequate.

    Roger walked around the block to the neighbor’s home.  Before he could ask, the neighbor began to rant…first in English, then quickly lapsing into Italian.  His response was so rapid and so angry, Roger was only able to grasp a few phrases:  “dannato fibre,” “propierta privata,” and “Carabinieri.”  The tone of his response, however, left no doubt what he meant: He didn’t give a damn about our fiber optic installation.  The box was on private property…his property…and he’d call the Carabinieri to arrest any repairmen who set foot in his yard.

    The repairmen called back to their headquarters and were told that without the permission of the property owner, there was nothing they could do.  Over the next few days, Carol got several phone calls back from Vodafone.  First call: Vodafone was exploring what else could be done.  Second call: Their supervisor was investigating legal options to access the junction box.  And final call: without the property-owner’s permission, they couldn’t repair the junction box.  Did we want to cancel our subscription?

    Carol and Roger are constantly surprised by Italian law and the way bureaucracy works.  This experience, however, puzzled us in ways we’d never imagined.  How could a communications company install a junction box on private property without a guarantee of access to their equipment?  How could that same communications company install fiber optic cable in the house next door, but not be able to extend that same line to our building? 

    Perhaps we’ll never learn after all. Now, we’re back to hot spots with our telephones. But there’s a rub. Every time one of our phone installs an update, the update resets our phones and we have to get help reprogramming them to use them as hot spots. Right now, Roger’s phone is functioning. Carol’s is not.

    Oh well.

  • The Romitorio

    Some time during the same century Pope Pius II was designing and building the city of Pienza, there was a second…less noticed…construction project going on nearby.

    The town of Pienza sits atop a high hill overlooking the Val d’Orcia. The Via Francigenia, the principal pilgrimage route from England and France to the Vatican in Rome, ran through that valley in the 1400’s.

    The main stopover spot along this part of the Via Francigenia was Spedaletto, an “ospite,” (root of the English words “hospitality” and “hospital”).  But for those looking for a bit more budget-minded lodging, there was this…

    It’s called a Romitorio.  The Italian word “Romitorio” translates into English literally as “hermitage,” or place where a hermit lives.  That, however, was not the function of this place.

    Clergy and monks who chose to stay here, rather than Spedaletto, had a place to store their belongings.

    There was a cistern to collect rainwater for drinking…

    …and several attempts to make the traveler’s stay a bit more comfortable…

     At one point, the walls of the Romitorio were frescoed.  Fragments of that artwork have survived six centuries of exposure to the elements.

    Bas reliefs of the Three Graces once graced the walls of one room.

    In another room, there was once a small altar dedicated to a pagan figure…a mermaid with a split tail…commonly seen on churches throughout the Val d’Orcia

    You can find her over the doorway of the 8th century church at Corsignano, on the 9th century abbey at San Antimo, and on the 12th century church in Sovana.

    A slight digression here…

    In Etruscan mythology, this figure is believed to be Scylla, one of the two Sirens who attempted to lure Ulysses and his crew onto the rocks with their beautiful “Sirens’ Song.”  By the time the Romans adopted the figure, she had become a goddess of fertility.  Early Christian mythology…especially in the Val d’Orcia…attributed her two tails to the moral choice women faced…virtue or sin.   And yes, this figure has the same roots as the Starbucks’ logo.

    Carol and Roger first heard about the Romitorio years ago and had been trying to visit ever since.  But the site is on private property, behind a locked gate, and down a treacherously steep pathway.  It is only open to the public a few days a year, when the property owner Carlo Moricciani leads tours.

    Carlo’s family has owned the property for generations.  Decades ago, when Carlo was a teenager…and even when his father was a teenager…the Romitorio was an out-of-the-way place local teens went to party.  Centuries of exposure to the elements did only some of the damage to the artwork at the site.  Partying teens did the rest.

    Several years ago, the Moricciani family decided to donate the Romitorio to the state as a protected archeological site.

    The Ministry of Culture told Carlo’s family they would first have to do an assessment of its archeological value.  The family agreed and asked when that assessment might take place.  They were told the wait averaged a dozen years.  Not satisfied with that long a wait, the Moricciani family set up a private-public partnership to assess and preserve the Romitorio.  It’s one of only a handful in Italy…where hundreds of Etruscan and Roman archeological sites await excavation and evaluation.

    It’s also proof that if you know how to work the system, Italian bureaucracy can be productive, not obstructive.

    If only Carol and Roger could learn how.