Category: Uncategorized

  • Italian Internet and Private Property

    One Summer, a few years ago, there was an electrical storm in Pienza…a common enough occurrence.  Carol and Roger were in Seattle at the time and did not know that a lightning bolt had struck a phone line on our street.  The resulting power surge blew out appliances in many houses…including any television set or Wi-Fi modem connected to fiber optic cable. 

    Within a few days the telephone utilities sent out repairmen to fix the lightning damage reported by our neighbors.  Since Carol and Roger were in Seattle and unaware of the outage, they never reported their damage.  So, the line to Casa Bergson was never fixed.

    Carol and Roger returned to Pienza a month after the storm…only to discover their phone line was dead and their Wi-Fi modem was fried.  Neighbors filled us in about the lightning strike and told us where to call to ask for repair.

    Carol, with the help of a friend, called the TIM…the phone company.  They promised to call back within 48 hours to arrange for repair.  That call never came.  Two weeks later, Carol called the phone company again and heard the same song: expect a return phone call within the next two days.  We were less surprised when that call never came either.

    Carol and Roger managed to cobble together an alternate system, using their phones as internet hot spots.  Cell phone service in Europe is marketed differently than in the USA.  Phone minutes are sold separately from data.  You purchase one package of phone minutes and a separate package of data (sold by the gigabyte).  If you use up all your data, not only can’t you access the internet, but your phone minutes are disabled as well.

    This system is fraught with problems.  The data purchases, available only in small batches, are expensive. Most frustrating, TIM’s on-line payment system managed to apply our data purchases not to data but rather to phone minutes…which were already fully funded.  And finally, on busy tourist weekends, Pienza’s lone cell tower is overwhelmed by demand…meaning internet searches often timed out or streaming video got knocked off-line.

    In frustration, we decided to try a different internet service provider.  Poste Italiana (the postal service) had good rates and was the only ISP with a representative in town to deal with problems.  Carol signed us up.  We were pleasantly surprised when, two days later, the modem arrived.  Roger plugged it in, fired it up…and discovered it used the same fiber optic cable that had been blown out in the electrical storm the Summer before.  Carol went to the post office to report the problem.  The postal clerk entered a request for line repair…and told Carol she would get a call setting up a appointment within the next two to three months. The results were similar.  The phone call never came.  Carol returned to the post office only to be promised yet another appointment.  In frustration, we abandoned this option.

    This June, when Carol and Roger returned to Pienza, new neighbors next door told us they had gotten a good response from Vodafone when they wanted Wi-Fi and phone service installed.  So, Carol and Roger went to the Vodafone store 25 km away in Sinalunga and signed up for their internet service.  Carol explained in detail that we needed our line repaired before any service would work.  The clerk at the Vodafone store insisted she understood the problem, and her company would resolve it…within two weeks.

    It took five weeks, not two, but Carol finally got a phone call from a a contractor for Vodafone…saying they would be out the next day to repair the problem.  They actually showed up…on time, no less!  For once, this seemed promising.

    The repairmen started to work on the problem.  The phone jack, where we would connect to the fiber optic cable, was fried.  It was replaced.  The line where the cable entered the apartment was fried as well.  They replaced that too.  They tested the outside phone line, where it entered the building.  It was dead.  They traced the problem to a junction box on the wall outside the house of the neighbor behind us.

    When that neighbor emerged from his house, the repairmen asked him if he would open his gate, so they could repair the box on the wall of his building.  The neighbor unexpectedly refused and launched into a profanity-laced tirade.  The repairman came back to our apartment, shrugged his shoulders (as only Italians can), and said he didn’t understand why…but he did not have permission to access the junction box and so he couldn’t repair what was inside it.

    This neighbor had always been friendly.  Roger told the repairman he would find out what the problem was.  He wasn’t too worried about understanding the neighbor…his English had always proven adequate.

    Roger walked around the block to the neighbor’s home.  Before he could ask, the neighbor began to rant…first in English, then quickly lapsing into Italian.  His response was so rapid and so angry, Roger was only able to grasp a few phrases:  “dannato fibre,” “propierta privata,” and “Carabinieri.”  The tone of his response, however, left no doubt what he meant: He didn’t give a damn about our fiber optic installation.  The box was on private property…his property…and he’d call the Carabinieri to arrest any repairmen who set foot in his yard.

    The repairmen called back to their headquarters and were told that without the permission of the property owner, there was nothing they could do.  Over the next few days, Carol got several phone calls back from Vodafone.  First call: Vodafone was exploring what else could be done.  Second call: Their supervisor was investigating legal options to access the junction box.  And final call: without the property-owner’s permission, they couldn’t repair the junction box.  Did we want to cancel our subscription?

    Carol and Roger are constantly surprised by Italian law and the way bureaucracy works.  This experience, however, puzzled us in ways we’d never imagined.  How could a communications company install a junction box on private property without a guarantee of access to their equipment?  How could that same communications company install fiber optic cable in the house next door, but not be able to extend that same line to our building? 

    Perhaps we’ll never learn after all. Now, we’re back to hot spots with our telephones. But there’s a rub. Every time one of our phone installs an update, the update resets our phones and we have to get help reprogramming them to use them as hot spots. Right now, Roger’s phone is functioning. Carol’s is not.

    Oh well.

  • The Romitorio

    Some time during the same century Pope Pius II was designing and building the city of Pienza, there was a second…less noticed…construction project going on nearby.

    The town of Pienza sits atop a high hill overlooking the Val d’Orcia. The Via Francigenia, the principal pilgrimage route from England and France to the Vatican in Rome, ran through that valley in the 1400’s.

    The main stopover spot along this part of the Via Francigenia was Spedaletto, an “ospite,” (root of the English words “hospitality” and “hospital”).  But for those looking for a bit more budget-minded lodging, there was this…

    It’s called a Romitorio.  The Italian word “Romitorio” translates into English literally as “hermitage,” or place where a hermit lives.  That, however, was not the function of this place.

    Clergy and monks who chose to stay here, rather than Spedaletto, had a place to store their belongings.

    There was a cistern to collect rainwater for drinking…

    …and several attempts to make the traveler’s stay a bit more comfortable…

     At one point, the walls of the Romitorio were frescoed.  Fragments of that artwork have survived six centuries of exposure to the elements.

    Bas reliefs of the Three Graces once graced the walls of one room.

    In another room, there was once a small altar dedicated to a pagan figure…a mermaid with a split tail…commonly seen on churches throughout the Val d’Orcia

    You can find her over the doorway of the 8th century church at Corsignano, on the 9th century abbey at San Antimo, and on the 12th century church in Sovana.

    A slight digression here…

    In Etruscan mythology, this figure is believed to be Scylla, one of the two Sirens who attempted to lure Ulysses and his crew onto the rocks with their beautiful “Sirens’ Song.”  By the time the Romans adopted the figure, she had become a goddess of fertility.  Early Christian mythology…especially in the Val d’Orcia…attributed her two tails to the moral choice women faced…virtue or sin.   And yes, this figure has the same roots as the Starbucks’ logo.

    Carol and Roger first heard about the Romitorio years ago and had been trying to visit ever since.  But the site is on private property, behind a locked gate, and down a treacherously steep pathway.  It is only open to the public a few days a year, when the property owner Carlo Moricciani leads tours.

    Carlo’s family has owned the property for generations.  Decades ago, when Carlo was a teenager…and even when his father was a teenager…the Romitorio was an out-of-the-way place local teens went to party.  Centuries of exposure to the elements did only some of the damage to the artwork at the site.  Partying teens did the rest.

    Several years ago, the Moricciani family decided to donate the Romitorio to the state as a protected archeological site.

    The Ministry of Culture told Carlo’s family they would first have to do an assessment of its archeological value.  The family agreed and asked when that assessment might take place.  They were told the wait averaged a dozen years.  Not satisfied with that long a wait, the Moricciani family set up a private-public partnership to assess and preserve the Romitorio.  It’s one of only a handful in Italy…where hundreds of Etruscan and Roman archeological sites await excavation and evaluation.

    It’s also proof that if you know how to work the system, Italian bureaucracy can be productive, not obstructive.

    If only Carol and Roger could learn how.

  • Postcards from Ireland

    On their way back from Pienza to Seattle, Carol and Roger stopped over in Ireland for 10 days of sightseeing.

    Dublin…with a quarter the population of Ireland…was quaint but was like any other big city.

    One pleasant surprise was the pub scene. Irish pubs are friendly and welcoming (except for the one tourist trap we visited) with good food (delicious fish and chips…every bit as good as Iceland’s) and, of course plenty of Guinness.

    Heading out of Dublin, Carol and Roger found more and more of the signage in Gaelic…This bar in Dingle is named “The Courthouse Pub.” We know this not because we became suddenly fluent in Gaelic, but because the name was written in English on the other side of the building.

    The small towns in the countryside are as charming as picture postcards.


    The physical geography is something else. The west coast of Ireland is called the Wild Atlantic…for good reason.

    When George Lucas was looking for an otherworldly location to film scenes for Return of the Jedi, here’s where he chose.

    When Sir Francis Drake scattered the Spanish Armada off the coast of England in 1588, the Spanish fleet tried to re-group off Ireland’s Atlantic Coast. The wild weather and the rocky shoreline drove many of the warships aground, drowning hundreds of Spanish sailors.

    The winds were so strong at the Cliffs of Moher…40 mph…Carol had to hang on for dear life to keep from being blown over the edge.

    July is supposed to be one of Ireland’s drier months. Carol and Roger spent their day on the Cliffs of Moher watching the rain squalls roll in. In fact, they sat through

    • 11 rainstorms on Monday
    • 5 rainstorms on Tuesday
    • 4 rainstorms on Wednesday
    • 1 rainstorm on Thursday…all day.

    Carol and Roger crossed the Shannon River estuary on a small catamaran ferry….to the Dingle Peninsula.

    The Dingle Peninsula is just as wild as the Galway coast. Had this lighthouse been built back in the days of the Spanish Armada, perhaps the four ships that got blown onto the rocks on this peninsula could have avoided their fate.

    Off the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula lie the Blasket Islands…the western-most speck of land in Europe. The Blaskets are so remote and desolate that in 1953 the Irish government forced the few remaining residents to relocate to the mainland.


    The Dingle Peninsula contains many Lios…or prehistoric forts built by the Druids for protection and family housing. This particular one is called Cashel Murphy…and dates back 5300 years (3200 BCE).

    One family lived in each of the circular openings (called beehive huts), which…more than a millenia ago…had stone roofs.

    The countryside of western Ireland is littered with castles. This is Rahinane Castle, County Kerry, built in 686. Like most of the castles we saw in Ireland, it was abandoned and allowed to deteriorate.

    The castles we saw tended to differ from the castles of Italy in several ways. Italian castles were built around a central square that was a hub for village economic activity, while Irish castes tended to be towers. Italian castles were built on a hilltop and surrounded by a moat…while Irish castles were right on the shoreline, designed to protect the coast.

    A few of the castles we saw…like this Norman tower in Gallarus, County Kerry…were undergoing restoration. Sadly, most were not.

    The exception that proves the rule is Kylemore Abbey in County Galway. It was built by the Benedictine monks during WW I to house Belgian nuns displaced by the war. It still operates as a monastery today.

    Even Ireland’s most famous castle…Blarney Castle, just outside of Cork…was in a state of deterioration. Built in 1446 as the home of the McCarthy clan, it sits on expansive grounds with beautiful gardens and fully restored out-buildings.

    And for a fee….one can climb to the top of the castle and kiss the Blarney Stone.


    Ireland certainly has its share of beautiful churches…like the Cork Cathedral.

    Or the stunningly vertical Cathedral in Cobh.

    The most primitive church… the Gallarus Oratory…was in County Kerry. It’s a national archeological site because of its unique sloping-walled, corbel architecture.

    The church in Kilmalkedar was first built in 636. It’s been long abandoned, though the graveyard contains the bodies of local folk recently deceased.

    Roger’s favorite church, however, is known as the home of St. Brendan the Navigator. Local legend says Christopher Columbus visited County Kerry in 1477, learned that St. Brendan had sailed from Ireland to Newfoundland in the 6th century CE…which planted the seed for Columbus’ “discovery” of the New World in 1492.


    In western Ireland, sheep are everywhere. Sheep in the pastures…

    …Sheep who wander onto the roads…

    Carol even got to feed a baby lamb.

    But yarn….to Carol’s surprise…was much harder to find. Wool Shops were everywhere. Most sold mass-produced Irish-knit sweaters aimed at tourists. After disappointing visits to 8 shops across Ireland…

    Finally, in Kilkerry, Carol finally hit pay-dirt. She found Kerry Mills, one of the few remaining mills that produces everything from fleece to sweaters…

    …and she left a happy camper.

  • A Weekend with the Etruscans

    About 70 km southwest of Pienza lies the town of Sovana in a landscape of deep gorges and steep cliffs. The scenery is stunning, but that’s not the reason most people come to visit.

    At one set of cliffs lies an archeological park called the “Citta del Tufo,” named for the type of rock in which the Etruscans carved their tombs.

    The park is riddled with man-made caves that served as tombs for the Etruscans, the people who once lived here.

    (Legend says the Etruscans were the descendants of Aeneas and his men, who fled Troy when the Greeks over-ran the city. (See the April 2014 post “Before the Romans“)

    Many of the tombs are accessible to visitors, though their contents were either looted centuries ago or moved to museums.

    One of the more notable graves is called Tombe Tifono…named after the mythical sea monster who the Etruscans believed caused typhoons.

    The weather has been hard on the tomb over the past 2,500 years, but if you look closely, you can still see…

    The remains of the face of the god Tifono, whose image was carved above the entrance of the tomb.

    The remains of frescoes that had been painted on the ceiling of the tomb. And..

    The steps the Etruscans built, so they could climb to the ledge above the cave…a place where archeologists found the burnt remains of sacrifices the ancients made to Tifono.

    The archeologist Ranuccio Brandinelli was responsible for most of the excavations around Sovana.  He worked from the 1920’s through the 1950’s discovering, documenting, restoring, and then archiving what he found at Citta del Tufo.

    Most of what he found is today displayed at the Museo Mamiliano a few kilometers away in the town of Sovana…

    …including a photo of the remains of one of the people buried in one the graves.

    Perhaps the single richest source of artifacts in the museum came from the Tomb of Hildabrandt, which…when we visited it…had clearly had all its artifacts removed.

    While the cave today is a barren cube hewn out of solid rock…

    …it was once decorated with a complex terra cotta façade.

    It contained mementos of earthly life…so the deceased’s spirit would have company in the hereafter.

    …including household items…

    …all 3 millennia old…

    …like this bronze knife…

    …and bronze comb.

    Some things never change…

    Even 3,000 years ago, the Etruscans needed to grate their cheese.

    Most of the pottery was found as shards and meticulously pieced back together.

    Look closely and see how the archeologists rebuilt this wine bowl.

    Some of the metal pots show remarkable sophistication and detail for something produced in the prehistoric Bronze Age.

    But the real star exhibit in the museum is these two figures.  They were cast in lead and show remarkable realism for figures manufactured around 300 BCE.

    They are part of a curious mystery.  The tomb in which they were found dates to four hundred years before these figures were produced.  Whoever made them, broke into that tomb and placed them next to a grave without stealing or disturbing any of the other items.  Archeologists have no idea why.

    Not all of the tombs at Citta del Tufo were discovered a century ago.  In this picture, Carol is standing at the mouth of one of the largest tombs at the park.  It was only unearthed in 2004. 

    Beside the large statue of a woman guarding the entrance, there is another of a headless animal…

    …and inside the tomb a reclining woman…

    It is named the Tomb of the Winged Demons, after this figure.  The winged mermaid with two tails was a recurring theme in Etruscan mythology…and one that endured for centuries…even into the Christian era.

    This same figure appears on the doorway of the Sovana cathedral…and on a Pienza church located adjacent to an Etruscan archeological village…and at the monastery of San Antimo.

    All we saw really blew our minds.  However, the caves and artifacts from the Citta delTufo told archeologists how the Etruscans dealt with death and religion, but not as much about how they lived.

    For that, we had to go 150 km north…to the town of Murlo.

    In the late 1960’s a group of archeologists (some from the University of Massachusetts) began excavating a wooded hilltop next to the town.

    What they found filled in huge gaps in their knowledge.

    The site contained the footings for a large home and a nearby workshop.  A fire had destroyed the original house.  The family that lived there rebuilt on the same site several years later, thus providing two sets of artifacts from Etruscan domestic life.

    This picture reproduces what the archeologists learned.  The open-air workshop contained…among other things…a foundry, showing how the Etruscans refined ore and cast their bronze and lead utensils.

    The Murlo museum has tools in metal, stone, and bone taken from the work area.  They tell us how the residents manufactured what they needed for daily life.

    The archeologists found enough building fragments to piece together the roof of a house…a terra cotta frieze under the eaves of the roof, a terra cotta gutter, and a system of interlocking terra cotta roof tiles that’s still used today.

    In addition, they discovered that these Etruscans placed statuary along the peak of the roof.

    One of those statues was so unique, he became the symbol of the Commune of Murlo.

  • Sodoma’s Revenge

    Our story begins here, at the abbey Monte Oliveto Maggiore, about 34 km northwest of PIenza.

    The abbey was founded in 1313 by the son of a prominent Siena banker. He was looking for the “most desolate place around” to prove that God would provide for the faithful. One of his founding companions was a Piccolomini…an ancestor of the Pope who founded Pienza.

    About 180 years after the abbey was founded, the Benedictine monks hired Luca Signorelli, a prominent artist (he later painted a fresco in the Sistine Chapel), to create a series of frescoes depicting the life of St. Benedict. Signorelli got five of the panels done when he got a better offer…

    …a chance to paint the interior of the duomo (cathedral) in Orvieto. He left the Benedictine monks at Monte Oliveto in the lurch.

    Enter the protagonist of this story, Giovanni Bazzi…nicknamed Sodoma (Yes, the name means what you think it does).

    The Benedictines hired him to finish the job Signorelli had abandoned.

    The frescoes, now 500 years old, line the central cortile of the abbey. Because they are outside, they have been exposed to the weather…

    …and looked somewhat the worse for wear. Fortunately, they have been recently restored.

    Some of the panels depict actual events from the life of St. Benedict….

    …like the 12 monasteries he is credited with building in his lifetime…

    …or when he drove a group of harlots out of one of his monasteries.

    Others dealt with the miracles with which he is credited…like this panel where he beats one of his monks to exorcise the devil from his soul.

    Apparently, the monks at Monte Oliveto were happy with his work…

    …because they recommended him to paint another series of frescoes at another Benedictine monastery, Santa Anna in Comprena (about 7 km north of Pienza).

    This is the monastery we can see when harvesting olives. It was the location where The English Patient was filmed.

    It has been retired as a monastery and is now an upscale bed and breakfast.

    On our first trip to Italy, Carol and Roger had the privilege to eat dinner in what had been the abbey’s dining room. It’s where Sodoma’s second set of frescoes are.

    Legend has it that after Sodoma finished his work at Monte Oliveto Maggiore, he got into a dispute with the monks there over what he should have been paid.

    The dispute was not settled to his satisfaction, so he took out his revenge on the Benedictines at Santa Anna in Comprena.

    Take a close look. Sodoma painted Jesus with a woman’s breasts. This may not seem shocking today, but it was scandalous in that era.

    That was Sodoma’s revenge.